Top phone apps for expats
At the age of seven, in the early 1980s, I moved to Kuwait with my family. We didn’t have a telephone. There wasn’t a door-to-door postal system. But we did have a tape recorder.

I remember my mother barring us from the living room as she recorded her message home, trying to sound as natural as possible, while feeling terribly self-conscious.

Three decades later I moved from the UK to the US with a baby and a toddler. The wide-open plains of Chicago were bewildering to me. I didn’t recognise the shops brands and I didn’t know the landmarks, so navigation was a huge issue.

And then technology came along in the form of an iPhone (other products are available!).

I have to say that technology helped me to find my feet. Having access to broadband on the go meant I had access to maps, and more importantly a little blue dot telling me where I was. I would never be lost again. I was able to shop online, check out reviews, book restaurant and cinema reservations.

And most importantly I was able to call home, for free.

So which apps and websites are currently helping expats find their feet? Here’s our list, but we’re love to hear your favourites. Drop us a line.

International favourites:
·      Skype – call another computer for free using video. Buy credit to call landlines.
·      iTranslate – getting used to another language? Try asking for a courgette or augbergine in an American supermarket (sorry, grocery store).
·      Google Maps – you’re lost without it.
·      Facebook – I was never a fan until I became an expat. Now it’s the easiest way to keep up with life in the mother country.
·      Dropbox – keep your documents and photos on a cloud and you’ll have access wherever you go.
·      Convertbot – for changing your life from centimetres to inches, and from pounds to dollars.
·      iPlayer radio – for getting your BBC Radio 2 fix.
·      Stannp – send a postcard using your own photos.

UAE apps:
·      The Entertainer – 2-4-1 deals on restaurants, spas and hotels. Just flicking through the deals helps you to get an overview of what it’s like to live there. Also now available in Singapore.
·      Careem – a great chauffeur car app. Clean, courteous and safe – the cars and the app.
·      The Dubai Mall – helping you to navigate around the biggest shopping centre in the world.

Singapore apps:
·      How2Go: Helping you get from A2B via public transport.
·      ComfortDelGro Taxi booking: Does what it says on the tin.
·      Redmart: Grocery shopping is tricky without a car, but for dry goods Redmart is a great place to start.

Do you have some gems to share?
Join our free Expat Explorers' Club for the chance to win luxury hotel stays.

The “Hatta Run” is a well-known day trip enjoyed by expats. If your residents’ visa hasn’t been processed, your tourist visa runs out after 30 days. This leads to a rushed scramble to the border to get an exit visa and new entry visa, usually accompanied by lunch and a swim at the Hatta Fort Hotel. I know someone who has been doing this every month for five years. The lunch must be very good.

But there is so much more to see. The first time most people leave Dubai by car, they realise that the mountains are only an hour away. You drive past the large orange sand dunes, and the aptly named Big Red, scattered with the revving 4x4 ants scuttling around, and then the rocky outcrops start to appear.

When you first arrive in Hatta you might think that there is not much to recommend it. On a prominent roundabout, the hotel is one of the first buildings you see, with a parade of shops opposite and then you wonder: “is that it?” Turn right at the roundabout and the narrow lane takes you into the village where you start to get a peak at real Hatta life.

Our first stop was the Hatta Heritage Village nestled between two fortified hills that, although only a short climb, offer lovely views of the surrounding area. This is considered to be one of the oldest habited areas in the area, and the Heritage Village gives a glimpse of the Bedouin past with restored traditional mud barasti houses surrounding the fort complete with bedrooms, majlis and kitchen.

Once you’ve found your historical grounding head to the hills for a picnic. There is quite a lot of road development, but the way is easy even if mostly off-road. You’ll follow water courses, or falaj, and eventually park at Hatta Pools. The deep refreshing pools and waterfalls are reviving, but the calm mirage can mask the danger: given their narrow design flash floods are possible in rainy weather.

Hatta Pools has two reputations. It is a wonderful, geographically interesting, canyon carved by cooling water, where you can take a wander up and down the rock faces and through the pools, have a picnic and watch local boys jump from the cliff tops, leaving their common sense behind them.

Then there is the mess. Bottles, rubbish and graffiti unfortunately litter some of the popular rest spots. It’s a shame that people can’t respect their natural habitats.

However, it’s worth the day trip, even if you only do it once. We’ll be going back.

The practical bit:

What to read: Make sure you have a map. The mountain roads can be difficult to navigate and there are no signposts. Try the Explorer guide: UAE off-road.

Visa: Although Hatta is in the UAE, you will be briefly passing through Oman. This means you’ll be going through checkpoints and will require your passport. The UAE exit checkpoint is a good distance from the Oman entry checkpoint and there is nothing stopping you driving through. You’ll only realise your mistake when you arrive at the Omani checkpoint and get sent back. Driving towards Hatta you’ll come across some low-rise buildings on the right. Stop and make sure you get your exit stamp. You will also be required to have Omani car insurance for your brief drive through Oman.

Hatta Heritage Village: Turn right at the Hatta fort roundabout (04 852 1384). Admission is free.

Hatta Pools: From the Dubai-Hatta highway, turn right at the fort roundabout and follow the Mahdah road through Hatta village. With the Heritage Village on your right drive down the hill and turn right toward the village of Jeemah. The tarmac disappears after the UAE checkpoint. Follow the gravel track to the pools. You can continue passed the pools and continue along the gravel track passed the villages of Ray and Shuwayhah. At the T-junction turn right back towards Dubai-Hatta Road.

Abu Dhabi is a capital city. That’s an obvious statement. Now read this description:

Overlooking the knarled, knotted mangrove trees, lies a pocket of calm in the middle of a bustling city. With tiny blue crabs and chattering birds playing hide and seek beneath the low boughs, the mangroves are worth investigating. Our first visit involved a canoe. I felt like an intrepid explorer, pushing my way through sand bars and jungle vines, through narrow streams and open stretches of water. Momentarily I had been transported onto the film set of Mosquito Coast. It felt exotic and adventurous. I was half expecting a crocodile to jump up to greet us.

On the edge of this intriguing microcosm is Anantara’s Eastern Mangroves hotel.

Only an hour’s drive from Dubai, this is a great way to spend the weekend away from all the hustle and bustle, within arm’s reach of nature and the city. From the dust and distractions of the roads, buildings and city life, the hotel lobby acts as a transporter, moving you from urban to rural life.

The experience starts with a warm welcome and cool drink. As soon as you walk through the door, the light and airy foyer drawers your attention to the beautiful infinity pool over looking the swamps. Attention has been paid to detail; from the lavender water spray and cool towels you’re offered besides the pool to the presentation of food in the restaurants.

Our visit was co-ordinated for us to sample The Big Brunch, a deal that allows you to indulge in a beautifully prepared languishingly long lunch, sipping cocktails and wine, without having to worry about getting home – you only have to stagger to your room for an afternoon nap. And the food was delicious, whether you’re looking for Western or Eastern flare, carvery or sushi, or hope to try it all, accompanied by live music.

The hotel itself is calm in décor and calm in its approach. This is a hotel that doesn’t over-service, so if you’re looking for the noisy kids’ club and entertainment you might be disappointed. But if you wish to enjoy an aperitif on the funky rooftop bar overlooking the hidden secrets of the mangroves, or relax during a leisurely lunch, or a spa treatment, this is a great weekend get-away.

The practical bit

Accommodation: We stayed in a standard room with queen-sized bed, plus a roll away bed and a converted sofa for the children. The bathrooms are large with a shower and bath.

Brunch: There are three packages for The Big Brunch starting at AED 295++ up to a premium package that offers the finest wines and French bubbles for AED 495++.

The deal: The Big Weekend Special offers accommodation, buffet breakfast for two and The Big Brunch on Fridays for two people. Prices start at AED 1,200. Available until December 22, 2013 on Thursday and Friday night only. A bit of trivia: Anantara is taken from an ancient Sanskrit word that means 'without end'. For more information: www.anantara.com

If Robinson Crusoe was marooned on this island I don’t think he would have had a problem – unless he didn’t like cheetahs.

Just over three hours from Dubai is a tranquil paradise that I would be happy to call home. And the best way to start your trip is from the air. The desert island of Sir Bani Yas, just west of Abu Dhabi, is seemingly inaccessible due to the shallow waters. Under the brilliant azure and turquoise ripples lie underwater mountain ranges and sand dunes struggling to reach fresh air. Sand bars jut out proudly into the inky depths, and rivers surge through sandy patches that have made their way to the surface. I could have been in the Maldives. I’ve been on lots of flights but this has to be one of the most captivating. At one point it was disorienting. The blue sea melted into the sandy coast, which merged with the sandy air, masking the horizon, which melted into the blue sky. I could have been flying upside down and not known it.

Our destination was a sneak preview of the new five-star deluxe Anantara Al Yamm villas opening next month to provide a relaxing and secluded spot that is so far unmatched in the Abu Dhabi area. To keep the peace, this is an adult-only retreat, although children are welcome at the neighbouring Desert Islands Resort. The 30 one or two bedroomed bungalows, which are neatly positioned on the beach or next to a lagoon, boast high-end fixtures and fittings, with plenty of dining and relaxing space to help you feel at home from home. If your private deck isn’t private enough you can retreat to the roof terrace.

The island has been developed by the Tourism Development and Investment Company, a subsidy of Abu Dhabi Tourism Authority, following the vision of Sheikh Zayed who wanted to create a sanctuary on the island, for his guests, as well as 10,000 gazelles, hyenas, cheetahs and giraffes.

So take your pick of activities: relax at the spa, swim in the pool or the sea, hire a boat for a spot of deep sea fishing, take a drive into the nature reserve for a bit of wildlife spotting…or do absolutely nothing. Isn’t that the point of a desert island?!

For more photographs click here.

The practical bit:

Transport: A free boat service, which runs every two hours, is available from the mainland, but the quickest option is to opt for a 20-minute flight from Al Bateen Executive Airport in Abu Dhabi. The flight, which costs around 400 AED, leaves three times a week on Saturdays, Tuesdays and Thursdays.

Prices: A special summer rates coincides with the opening of the new villas starting at 1,850 AED including breakfast for a one bedroomed villa.

Accommodation options: Anantara also operates the Desert Islands Resort and Spa, the only resorts currently on Sir Bani Yas Island. The Anantara Al Sahel Villa Resort is due to open at the end of the year.

A bit of trivia: Al Yamm means “the sea”. The name was inspired by the Arish dwellings of the early fishermen and pearl divers who lived seasonally on the island.

Want to find out more? www.al-yamm.anantara.com

I live in a jungle city and sometimes I crave for the jungle. I live in a desert, and yes, I miss real forests that I can run through, scented with natural mulch and moss. I live in city of skyscrapers and sometimes I want to find a view that isn’t the urban sprawl from the top of a high-rise. Living in Dubai, there are trade-offs, but if you want a view of mountains and sand dunes rather than spaghetti roads and concrete, I can point you in the right direction.

Jebel Hafeet stands 1,240 metres high and is the tallest peak in the Abu Dhabi region, and the second tallest in the UAE. It sits on the edge of Al Ain and is only a 90-minute drive away from the cities. It’s worth making the effort even on the hottest day. Believe me, it’s a pleasant surprise when you get to the top and brace yourself for the furnace that greets you when you open the car door, only to find that it is actually a couple of degrees cooler. It may not be a big difference, but living in a frying pan we’ll take those couple of degrees any time we can.

The road that winds its way up the steeply sided mountain switches to offer some great vantage points. Along the route there are several parking areas to allow you to stop and click away with your camera.

The aerial view allows you to get some geographical perspective on your surroundings. If you’re travelling from Dubai or Abu Dhabi, you’ll pass sand dunes, some impressively orange in colour, and then you’ll hit Al Ain, with its long straight roads and roundabouts. But once you’re half way up Jebel Hafeet you get a better understanding of how the land is constantly changing. They say that sand will eventually cover everything leaving no trace, if left unchecked, and from your elevated position you can see the creep of the sand dunes, trickling over the scrub. The flat scrub then gives way to rocky outcrops, which rise steeper and steeper out of the ground until they erupt into the surrounding mountains.

You don’t have to travel far to see things from a different perspective. You just have to get in the car and drive. And take a picnic and a camera.

The practical bit
Accommodation: 
Probably the only hotel commanding such a view, the Mercure Grand Hotel Jebel Hafeet is in a super location with restaurants taking full advantage of its pinnacle position. The only things grand about the hotel however, is its title. It’s a little disappointing in terms of the quality of food and service. Although dated, it is basically clean. The rooms are on the small side for a family. We asked for a twin double room, to share with our two children, but the beds were not a standard size and not much bigger than a single; rather too snug for two adults to share comfortably. 

There are spa services, but I’m not sure whether I’ve had the worst or the best massage of my life. If you opt for a pampering don’t be surprised if this is not what you get. Less pampered and more pummeled. My husband described how he was hoisted up the bed by the masseuse putting her fingers in his ears and then had his eyeballs vibrated by an electronic massager. I’m not entirely sure if he was complaining.

Things to do:
·      Al Ain zoo – Compared to others this is a spacious and well-maintained zoo, which caters for rare breeds and endangered species too. It’s open 365 days a year but only during the evenings in the summer. www.awpr.ae

·      Watch towers and forts – Al Jahili is one of the oldest forts in the UAE and the birthplace of the late Sheikh Sayed Bin Sultan al Nahyan, founder of the nation. The Al Ain Museum is also worth visiting if you want an introduction to the region’s early history. 

“I’ve got a week in Dubai. There is no culture there. How can I spend my time?”

Hold on sister. Open your eyes.

I think broadly, most tourists who land in Dubai fall into two categories. There are those that are content to lie on the beach or by the pool during the day, and fill their boots, or flip flops, with alcohol in the evening. There is something to be said for R&R.

And there are those who are a bit confused and feel Dubai is devoid of culture and doesn’t have much to offer. Wrong, wrong, wrong.

I have to admit, I was a skeptic when I first came here. I’ve travelled all around the world but I couldn’t get my brain to understand what Dubai was all about. I’d heard that it was the Vegas of the Middle East. I’d heard it was all fake. I’d heard that it was gold-plated.

And some of it is. But you only have to keep your eyes open to find out that the diversity and multi-facets of the Emirates is what makes it unique, and therefore confusing because you can’t compare it with anywhere else. You have no frame of reference. Of course, there are still “only in Dubai” moments when you see a shiny gold Maserati, or do a double take when you see a vending machine spitting out gold.

However, I think the best place to start your journey of discovery is at the beginning of history. Find the roots of the place, and then you will understand how the city grows from its foundation. I decided to take my own medicine – I jumped on a Big Bus tour and with my shades on (knees and shoulders suitably covered, of course) I pretended to be a tourist.

I find public transport stressful. There, I’ve admitted it. What should be a service that provides me with a solution when my mobility is challenged, turns into a challenge itself. I worry about missing my train or bus; I worry whether I’ll get a seat; I get stressed about the price of a usually poor service; and living in Dubai I’m pretty much out of practice, seeing as there are no trains, the metro is clean and efficient, and I don’t know how to catch a bus.

On holiday I’ve often seen hop on-hop off services touring around, and I’ve viewed them as a public transport solution, that takes the hassle out of buying separate tickets when I don’t know where I’m heading to, albeit at an inflated price. So that’s something else I have to admit. I’ve misunderstood the point.

The first lesson I learned is that this is not a public transport system. Yes, it takes you from A to B, and on to Z and back round to A if you want it too, but this is tour. We were given personal headphones, which allowed us to listen to commentary, encouraging us to look left or right. The service was punctual, and given the traffic in Dubai, this is not easy to achieve; the staff were courteous and I have to praise the drivers. You need to know how to navigate the dangers of Dubai’s roads, and with a massive bus this can’t be easy.

There are three routes: the red route takes you around old Dubai and the Creek area, the blue route travels down the coast as far as the Palm, and the purple route is a shuttle to Dubai Festival Centre. There are two points where you can change your route: at Wafi Mall and Burjuman Mall. We parked at the latter, and not wishing to rush around with two small children in tow, decided to spend our time on the red route, although it is possible to fit in the blue route too.

Even having lived here a couple of years, we found new places to explore. Here are some of the highlights:

·       Creekside Park: Cost 5Dhs entry per person. You can visit the Children’s museum, Dolphinarium or walk along the Creek promenade. The children enjoyed the mirror maze (20Dhs per child) in the Dolphinarium, but the flashing lights were a bit much for the adults. 

·       Cruise: An hour’s cruise on a dhow takes you to the mouth of the Creek and back. The ticket is included in the Big Bus package. We enjoyed a shawarma while letting the bustle on the river pass us by.

·       Souqs: Whether you’re interested in textiles, spices or gold, this is a great way to see traditional life in Dubai.

·       Dubai fort and museum: Al Fahidi Fort is probably the oldest building in Dubai dating from the 18th century. There are air-conditioned displays that take you through Dubai’s development from the pearl fishing village to the ultra modern shiny city. The ticket is included in the Big Bus package.

·       Sheikh Saeed al Maktoum’s house: the residential quarters of the former ruler of Dubai contains displays and photographs, which give you an insight into Dubai’s humble beginnings. The ticket is included in the Big Bus package.

So whether you’re a tourist visiting for the first time, or an expat who has lived here for years, there is always something new and surprising if you look for it. Just wipe the sand from your eyes.

Tips: If you choose to travel on a Friday little is open until 2.30pm so plan your day accordingly.
Big Bus 24 hour ticket cost: AED 220 for adults and AED 100 for children aged 5-15. www.bigbustours.com

Enter our new Big Bus Tour competition to win tickets worth $120

Welcome to Expat Explorers’ latest competition, in partnership with the Big Bus tours. We have three pairs of tickets up for grabs for Big Bus tours of Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Muscat.

How to enter: Read our Big Bus article above and answer a simple question to be entered into the draw. The winner will be pulled out of a hat. Remember to say which city you’d prefer tickets for.

Competition question: How many routes does the Dubai Big Bus run and what colours are they?

Deadline: 10 November, 2013.

Good luck, and we look forwards to hearing from you. Click here to enter. 

You really could not have contrived a more a perfect Kodak moment if you’d tried; the symmetry of the Arabian-inspired crenelated walls, with a central infinity pool reflecting an arch, which offers a perfect window to the burnt orange sun-scorched sand dunes beyond. Then wait for the sun to go to bed and your breath is taken away by the brilliant moon perched perfectly above.

If you want real desert this is the place to come. We’ve escaped Dubai’s skyscraper forest before for the smooth open undulating dunes of the desert. It’s a fun afternoon to pack a coolerbox, firewood and some marshmallows, and set up camp just an hour away from home. It feels remote and peaceful. At least I thought it did until today.

Liwa is an oasis on the edge of the largest desert in the world, Rub al Khali (Empty Quarter). And it does its name justice. Three hours’ drive from Dubai and you start to get a real feel for what desolation is. I’m not usually worried but I had the nagging feeling that we would be screwed if our car broke down. With the weight of responsibility for two young children we tend to be more sensible now than we were in our backpacking days. We had water, snacks, maps…but there was no shadow or shade in sight. In 40C heat, you don’t last long without it.

The Rub al Khali desert is so harsh and barren even Bedouins only dance around the edges of it, but the 150km wide Liwa oasis that hugs the side is not empty of history. This land is famous for bearing the footsteps of Wilfred Thesiger on his explorations. It is also home to the Maktoum and Al Nahyan families who now rule Dubai and Abu Dhabi.

The Tilal Liwa hotel was our temporary home for this weekend away from life; “tilal” means “dune”. Originally a hotel for camel owners galloping to the track during December’s festival, it soon found itself the target of expats searching for the real Arabian desert. There are now plans to expand the hotel with villas.

Today we got acquainted with the Arabian desert at very close quarters. A little too close for my liking as I found my nose an inch from the windscreen of a 4x4 as we rolled and pitched across the dunes. The raw beauty is stunning though. Bring a plastic bag with you…just in case.

Accommodation: Tilal Liwa hotel, built three years ago, is 180km from Abu Dhabi (330km from Dubai). Although the hotel has four stars it is no frills; don’t expect the glitz of a big city hotel. It has a beautiful courtyard with an infinity pool. The view of the dunes from the pool is reason enough to visit. The best rooms have patio doors opening onto the courtyard. 

The largest desert in the world? Are you sure? How do you cut a cake?! To be considered a desert an area must have less than 250 millimeters of annual rainfall, so strictly speaking that would be the Antarctic. The Sahara is the world’s largest hot weather desert, but the Rub al Khali is the largest sand desert ie. single largest area of continuous sand.

For more photographs, please click here. 

Competition: win a weekend in the largest desert in the world

Fancy heading off to the desert for a mini break? The Liwa oasis, a two hour drive outside Abu Dhabi, is on the edge of the Rub al Khali, or the Empty Quarter, the largest sand desert in the world. Experience an exciting summer adventure at the 4-star Tilal Liwa Hotel.

The lucky winner will receive a voucher for a two night weekend stay, for up to two adults and two children under 12, including breakfast. Activities include a sightseeing visit to the traditional camel farms and race arena, sand boarding, as well as full use of the hotel pool, gym and kids' club.

How to enter:
Leave a comment completing the statement: "I love the desert because...." The best comment wins. It's as easy as that. Good luck. Click here for conditions.

Closing date: 
Sunday, 7th July, 2013

There is a miracle growing in Dubai. This arid desert is home to a rainbow carpet of flowers. A small patch of barren land, beside a twelve-lane dusty highway, has temporarily been transformed into a little piece of northern Europe called Dubai Miracle Garden. The dubious claim is that this is the World’s largest natural flower garden.

Landscaping company Akar intend to attract one million visitors a year to see 45 million flowers covering a 72,000 square metre site.

The definition of the word “natural” might be stretched here however, given Petunias are not native flowers, dry sandpits don’t often produce blankets of blooms, and many man-hours have been invested to create this miracle. So is it a success?

In terms of colour, it is. It’s a riot of pinks, purples and oranges. In terms of creativity, marks do have to be given for effort. Pyramids, mounds, arches and even cars are covered in blossoms. And in terms of interest, there were certainly queues of camera clicking visitors, many from the Subcontinent, where there neither the natural environment, or failing that, finances to create such a fanciful and frivolous project.

However, in terms of horticultural prowess, this is not a green-fingered planting achievement. In fact there is very little planting at all. Plastic plots of Petunias are stacked high or laid in rows. It is also not a garden in the true sense. There is little variety in the blooms. I think I may have seen a Geranium, and oddly some umbrellas. But that was it. If you like Petunias, this is a garden for you. But there is a reason why Petunias are used to create the Miracle Garden. With little water they grow impressively well in Dubai.

This wasn’t an educational nature trail where I would learn the healing properties of plants, or their Latin names.

But it is an achievement that Dubai is proud of. Get too close to the flowers, or roll a baby’s pram over the grass, and a man in a fluorescent vest blows a whistle very loudly in your face. And after all, name another country that would choose to grow a flower garden in the middle of a desert? It wouldn’t surprise me if the UAE’s motto became “It hasn’t been done yet, so why not?” It has the tallest building, the largest dancing fountains, the largest fish tank, the largest indoor ski slope, the largest shopping mall – and that’s just Dubai. It might be short of a miracle but this fanciful flower patch is another first for Dubai, and that appears to be how success is measured here. 

The practical bit

·       Dubai Miracle Garden is now open to the public from 10am to 10pm on weekdays and 10am to midnight on weekends and on public holidays.
·       It will close in late-May, reopening in October.
·       The entry fee is 20Dhs for adults and children aged three and above.
·       www.the-miracle-garden.com

Riding the Arabian dragon’s spiny backbone
Part 1: Al Hajar mountains from Oman
If you look at an aerial map of the Arabian peninsula, you could imagine that a fiendish dragon or dinosaur had laid its weary head down to sleep on the soft, warm sand and fallen asleep. Over the years the wind blew the sand dune over its sleeping body like a blanket, leaving only the spiny backbone visible from the sky.

That is how I like to see the Al Hajar Mountains, which stretch more than 500km from the Omani tip in Musandam, crossing through the United Arab Emirates to the most easterly point of Oman near the fishing village of Sur.

This weekend’s adventure started on one side of the mountains, and ended on the other, without actually going over the top, which obviously would have been the more direct route.

When we have the opportunity we like to escape Dubai, with its technologically advanced skyscraper landscape, to find ourselves in the hills. With the help of a babysitter, we left the children at home for a short overnight trip to take part in a running race to the top of Wadi Bih, near Dibba, Oman; More than 75km of wadi bashing on foot for fun.

However, before our race could begin our first hurdle was not getting across the mountains but getting across the border. Sharjah authorities now demand that UAE residents present proof of a hotel stay or booking with a dhow operator to enter Oman at this crossing, so if you plan to camp you may face some challenges. We had given our passport details to the race organisers who did everything they could to smooth the path, but regardless we were turned back at the border until we had found a policeman wandering around with our name on his list. Now you may think that we would have to prove our identity and we would be stamped or given of permission slip to pass thorough the iron gates of bureaucracy. No. I pointed to the list, and said: “That’s me.” The policeman said: “Tell the guard Khalid said it’s ok.” And that was it.

This is not even a visa issue. If you hold a tourist visa, rather than a resident’s visa you’re exempt. So the reason for the change in crossing logistics is unclear. It could be to stop people with debts absconding and escaping by boat, but seeing as the Strait of Hormuz is the watery home of pirates, smugglers and Iranian sailors, it’s not a great route, especially when you can head to Muscat with no problems.

All that is clear is that local businesses are suffering as adventurous thrill seekers search for rocks and wadis to scramble over somewhere else.

The landscape, though, cannot be tainted by this little hiccup. The powerful dragon lies sleeping peacefully on the beach, and did not react when we tickled him by running up and down his spine. The views are spectacular. The strata of the rock wiggles its way uphill ending in a rainbow of colour. It’s almost worth running the 35km or so up to the top just for the view.

Frustratingly the border restrictions mean you have to return via the same border post. There is a gravel track that runs from Dibba through the Musandam peninsula to Khasab and forks to link up with Ras al Khaimah. But the route is closed unless you are an Omani or UAE national.


Part 2: Al Hajar from Ras al Khaimah
The second part of our trip took on a completely different flavor. The dust, energy and eventual exhaustion of our first trip was replaced by a relaxing, peaceful time within the sanctuary of a beach resort. The Hilton Ras al Khaimah Resort and Spa describes itself as where “barefoot luxury meets fun and adventure, and goes hand in hand with relaxation”. And that’s what we got. It’s a popular haunt for tourists and Dubai residents. 

Ras al Khaimah, which means "Top of the Tent" possibly in reference to the mountains, isn’t a bustling city but its history dates back to the 3rd Millennium BC, when it was know as Julfar. It’s a good base to visit the mountains, but routes can be dangerous, so it’s worth going with a guide. 

The Stairway to Heaven is one example. It offers magnificent views and was created Bedouins to give access from Wadi Galilah in Ras al Khaimah to the high mountain villages located just over the border in Oman. With drops of 300 metres, and with over 2,000 metres of ascent and descent, it is not for the faint hearted and accidents are not unknown. 

If you’re looking for day trips that don’t leave your pulse racing or your heart pounding, Ras al Khaimah is also a good base to visit the nearby thermal springs at Khatt, and the Musandam peninsula for a spot of dolphin watching.

However, with its spa, watersports, beach, pools, kids’ club and a good range of restaurants you might never leave the hotel. I never say no to chilling out…but then again I never say know to the chance to climb on a dragon’s back either.

What to read: UAE and Oman Off-Road guides, published by Explorer.

Information on border restrictions

Information on Stairway to Heaven

Information on Musandam trip

Where to stay: Hilton Ras al Khaimah Resort and Spa, 

What to do: Dhow trip around Musandam peninsula; thermal springs at Khatt, mountain walks.

What you need to know: You can cross into Oman at the Tibat border post, and back again, but at time of writing you can not create a circular route through to Dibba, unless you are an Omani or UAE national, due to border restrictions at that crossing. If you want to cross into Oman at the Dibba border post you’ll need to book accommodation in advance, and the hotel or your tour operator will make crossing arrangements for you. It is currently not possible to cross the border to camp on the beach with a UAE resident’s visa.

And finally: Don’t forget your passport.

Please note: Hotels and activities mentioned are only suggestion. They have been tried and tested by us anonymously. Other places to stay are available, depending on your preferences and budget. We are not able to provide an exhaustive list of hotels – those mentioned are a result of our travel experience.

Scaling new heights on top of the world
We all know that Dubai likes to be at the top of the charts. And from humble beginnings it has travelled far. Dubai doesn’t really appear on a map until the 18th century. It was a small fishing village famed for its pearls. With cultural influences from Muslim, Turk, Mongol and Ottoman Empires, the Arabian Peninsula then became a British strategic base in the nineteenth century. Having defeated the pirates in the Gulf, Britain offered protection in return for local influence and the Trucial States were born.

So from a piece of grit grows a beautiful pearl. The dancing fountains at the Dubai Mall are the World’s largest, and the same mall boasts the World’s largest fish tank (or to be precise the largest piece of acrylic). The indoor ski slope at the Mall of the Emirates is the World’s longest.  Dubai is also on the edge of the largest desert (The Empty Quarter). In short, Dubai likes its claims to fame; from high rise living and the biggest residential project  (Jumeirah Beach Residence) to the desolate salt flats; from the mountains on one border to the spectacular coral reefs on the other. Dubai is a place to be explored.

We travel around the World, so why not travel up? And in my mind all explorations should start with the Burj Khalifa. Whether you like the high life or not, this is one structure which cannot fail to cause your jaw to drop. It is the spinnaker that keeps this Emirate afloat. It is the pinnacle around which the city revolves, and as the World’s tallest building standing at 828m, it dominates the skyline.

The Burj Khalifa opened in 2010, only six years after construction began. At one point a floor was being built every day and to keep the concrete from setting in the heat, before it reached its lofty destination, ice was added to the mix.

It should be on your travel wish list, but thanks to a new image, which places you right on top of the World, you can now visit from the comfort of your chair.

The interactive photograph offers a 360 degree view, and was created by photographer Gerald Donovan to celebrate the second Hamdan Bin Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum Photography Award (HIPA), which will take place in Dubai in March.

The photograph is really a jigsaw, which allows you to zoom and navigate, and is made from 70 separate 80 megapixel images pieced together.

And it gives you access to a view like no other. Although the public observation deck is on the 124th floor, the photographs were taken from the 160th floor. Whether you suffer from vertigo or not, the final steps on a 200 metre ladder are not ones I wish to take. It sounds like a Mission Impossible, and I think I’ll leave that to Tom Cruise.

If you want to visit the observation deck on the 124th floor book in advance. This not only guarantees your ticket but is also much cheaper than on-the-door tickets. Unfortunately, if a sandstorm blows in you won’t be able to change your visit slot. For tickets visit the Burj Khalifa website. 

To find out more about the Hamdan Bin Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum Photography Award (HIPA), and see the 360 photograph, visit their website by clicking here.