Muscat, the jewel in the crown
Muscat is a shy, respectful grand dame, who shows a different side of her character each time you visit.

The old city of Muscat has been the country's capital since 1793, and it is still the palaces, souqs and museums detailing the rich history, that draw thousands of tourists.

But in terms of modern development, Muscat’s crown jewels include the Opera House and Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, along with a growing handful of modern, luxury hotels, which are supplying the increasing demand from Western tourists.

Muscat means “place of anchorage”. It is one of the few natural harbours in Oman, and so the watery docks are a great place to start any tour of the city. Here are some highlights:

·      A great day out starts at the fish market on the Corniche, which offers the hustle and bustle of a traditional market. Then visit the Bait al Baranda museum for a historical perspective, and return to the Corniche, where you can walk all the way to Al Alam Palace, which is the ceremonial palace of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos of Oman. Visit the Mutrah souq in the evening.

·      Visit the rambling streets of the souq at Mutrah in the evening, and spend time talking to the shopkeepers, who offer wonderful insight into life in Muscat. From beautiful Syrian marquetry boxes to traditional Omani silver khanjars and to pure silk pashminas from Kashmir, you can travel the globe just by walking through the souq. Take in the sounds and smells as well as the sights. Breath in the incense, listen to the music. Although becoming more and more geared towards entertaining tourists, it’s still one of the best souqs I’ve been to.

·      If you’d like to do some walking, you can trek from Riyam to Mutrah (path C38) along a historic path that used to serve as the only way to get to Muscat other than by sea. There are some great views over the Gulf of Oman, but remember that the sun sets very quickly so don’t leave too late in the day as the route is quite remote. The walk takes around three hours, depending on whether you have young children with you.

·      Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque: A modern beauty with carved stone archways, Swarovski crystal chandeliers, Persian carpets and five minarets representing the five pillars of Islam, the mosque was opened in 2001. 

Partly due to modernisation, but partly due to her rich tapestry of proud heritage and history, the city can be visited time and time again and each visit will leave you with contrasting memories.

Coastal life: Watching feasting fish and tracking turtles

The fishing town of Sur is a pretty place to spend some time. With a long sweeping corniche, that provides picturesque views towards a natural cove it’s the perfect place to refuel.

Proud of its dhow building history some of the fishing vessels have been mounted on dry land so you have the opportunity to have a good look around. Hand-made from teak, often without any blue prints, the dhow is a status symbol and a reflection of a rich sea-faring heritage.

We walked up to the spit of land and flagged down a little boat, which ferried people back and forth the waterway. Until recently, when a road bridge was constructed, it was the only way to get across this expanse of water without going all the way round the lagoon. Mubarak, our ferryman, had lived in Sur all his life and gave us a little insight into the development of the town, which is a popular holiday destination for Omanis. He took us to the sand bars in the middle of the lagoon and then back up the water way to the opposite spit of land, where the village of Al Ayjah sits perched on the edge.

Given its remote position, it remains untouched, but the traffic now thunders over the bridge and a major road skims its edges. There is a lighthouse at the mouth of the lagoon, and pretty white low-rise buildings, broken periodically by mosque minarets. In the centre a fort proudly stands, guarded by two cannons, and surrounded by frisky goats that jump on and off parked cars. Remind me not to park where goats’ roam.

In stark contrast to the neat boxy houses we could see from afar, tucked in between were crumbing remnants of old buildings, now home to various livestock, who were not able to appreciate the faded grandeur or ornately carved doors. What I appreciated most was the lack of commercialism. This little hamlet, close enough to Sur to feel part of the modernised world, hadn’t been tempted to put up neon signs or open its doors for a quick dollar. From the trio of watch towers keeping out a beady eye, to the watchful and interested gaze of the residents, Al Ayjah felt like a town proud to have one foot in the past.

We walked back over the bridge, which gave us a super vantage point. While eating lunch, looking across the bay earlier, we had been treated to a show of silver flying fish teasing a rather frustrated looking heron. On top of the bridge we were able to see thousands of tiny fish swaying in its watery swarm, teasing bigger fish that darted and chased the piscatorial waves. The bigger fish leapt and dived with such force, but all they seemed able to do was divide the shoal, which very quickly morphed back together again. A lone heron stood on the bank, with what I hope was a look of bemusement on his face. He wasn’t the only one to fail at feasting on fast food.

Our accommodation for the night was the Turtle Beach Resorts, at Ras al Hadd. Hidden away down a dusty track and situated right on the beach, it is a quaint little place to stay, and the perfect location for trips to see the turtles. The rooms, made to look like barasti huts, are basic, but clean, some with en-suites and air conditioning. There is an evening buffet on the veranda of the dhow restaurant, overlooking a calm bay, and despite being family-friendly, surprisingly peaceful.

The resort arranged nightly trips to a nearby turtle beach in the evenings. We follow a snake of cars, led by a local guide. I had anticipated the excitement of seeing these gentle giants in the wild, but I don’t think I really appreciated how big they are. The one we met, and eventually followed into the sea, was about a metre long. It’s a rather breathtaking sight, especially when you compare it to its six centimetre babies. Madeleine, our eldest daughter was excited to be able to save a baby from being trampled on, and after much persuading that “Goldie”, the baby turtle, was better off with her mother than being kept as a pet, it was gently released into the sea.

Our final adventure was at Wadi ash Shab. Billed as one of the greatest walks in Oman, we were not disappointed. After crossing the wadi in a boat, the walk was easy going, passing several plantations and rock pools. The way gets steeper, and the rocks get bigger. At one point you walk along a ledge in the rock face, difficult but not impossible with children. The finale is, however, not suitable for young children or weak swimmers. At the last rock pool you have to swim 50m to a small gap in the rock face, which you either squeeze through or swim under, reappearing in a small cave with a waterfall flooded with light. It’s a fantastic reward.

The practical bit

What to do:
·      Visit the Turtles. There is a conservation centre at Ras Al Jinz.
·      Visit the hidden cave at Wadi ash Shab, near Tiwi, off route 17.

Where to stay:
Turtle Beach Resorts is at Ras al Hadd: www.tbroman.com

What to read:
·      Oman Trekking by Explorer
·      Oman Off-Road by Explorer

Keep you eye out for:
·      The tiger rock: on the left side of the road towards Sur just after the Khawr Jirama lagoon.
·      The 13th century tomb of Bibi Maryam, 20 minutes outside Sur at the ancient fishing village of Qalhat on route 17.

A bit of trivia:
·      Sur was famous for its dhow building in the 19th and 20th centuries, with a heritage spanning 2,000 years. The handicrafts and skills needed to create a boat without drawings have been passed on from generation to generation. The boatyards are open if you want to see how the work is done and there is also a maritime museum so you can get close up to ships of all sizes.

The desert: Swimming from the bottom of the sea upon a dune

Leaving the mountains behind, our scenery changed very suddenly and very dramatically. On top of the mountain we had see fossils of fish and snails, which hinted at an aquatic past. At the foot of the mountain, rock faces at perplexing angles, and varying degrees, crashing into the horizontal sea bed, which was wide and vast. It was strange to image we were driving along what could have been the bottom of the sea once upon a time.

On the way to the town of Ibra we discovered a beautiful ruin, which we were told by a local passer-by was a meeting place. The crumbling mud and stone chips traced out a majlis and water tunnels, as well as a 15m well. Against the backdrop of the mountains it was a stark reminder that all over these peaks man has survived on little more than their wits in remote homesteads that still created a hierarchical community based on order and respect.

After Ibra, the rocky outcrops suddenly gave way to the golden sand dunes of Wahiba, which rolled away for as far as the eye could see. At the village of Al Wasil, we turned right and headed straight for the Sharqiya Sands, and after 11km reached a fenced tented community that was to be our home for two nights.

We arrived at the end of the day and were ushered out of the camp and into a 4x4, which took us to the top of a dune where we watched the orange sun bounce along the dune opposite before pocketing itself into a hideaway, bringing the camp into dusk and then total darkness. Watching the sun dive over a dune is a must-see desert experience. Whether the wind is whipping up a storm, or everything is completely calm, the colours, shapes and lack of sounds make this an unforgettable and magical moment. We were so far from a major town we couldn’t even see any light pollution, exactly as nature intended.

The next day we packed plenty of water and snacks and headed back to the mountains, but not before stopping to see the fort at Al-Mintarib, just a couple of kilometres south of the main highway. It was a great insight into bygone living and architecture, from the cramped jail to the crenulated battlements.

Back on the main road we then turned left climbing towards Wadi Bani Khalid. Each wadi brings with it a different experience. This area is famous for its clear pools, which are so enticing it’s hard not to jump straight in. Brave souls climb the canyons and plummet straight into the hidden depths, which are surprisingly deep. The more timid are content to sit on the rocky ledges and let the tiny fish nibble at their feet, a spa treatment that many would pay for.

There are good facilities, which leave it more like a park than a natural oasis, but follow the water further up the canyon and you’ll find secluded pools and streams, fed from a spring. The route can be slippery, with rocks buffed to a shine from passers-by, but we managed it perfectly with the children. At the top of the wadi is Moqal Cave, which should only be visited with a guide and a torch. 

Our final trip of the day was to the village of Bidah, at the mouth of Wadi Bani Khalid, where we climbed to the top of the village for a view down the gorge of date palm farms, a verdant oasis set against the baron rock. We were on the hunt for red bananas, but left unsatiated, we will have to try another day. There is so much to see and explore, the dunes and mountains demand more than one visit.

The practical bit

What to do:
·      Ruined meeting place, about 10km outside of Ibra. Head away from the town on route 23 and the ruins are on your left.
·      Fort at Al-Mintarib.
·      Wadi Bani Khalid is about 40 mins from Al Wasil. It’s a lovely spot for a picnic, swimming and meandering through the wadi. If you’re planning to swim make sure you dress conservatively and swim in shorts and t-shirt.

Where to stay:
The Desert Nights camp 11 km from Al Wasil is a great oasis in the middle of the dunes. The permanent ensuite tents, with electricity and water, really ensure even people who don’t like roughing it will be comfortable. It’s glamping, not camping. The site has 26 tents, a bar and a restaurant. Each evening and at daybreak you can watch the sun dancing along the dunes. There is a full range of extra activities from dune bashing to sightseeing. www.desertnightscamp.com

What to read:
·      Oman Trekking by Explorer
·      Oman Off-Road by Explorer


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