The “Hatta Run” is a well-known day trip enjoyed by expats. If your residents’ visa hasn’t been processed, your tourist visa runs out after 30 days. This leads to a rushed scramble to the border to get an exit visa and new entry visa, usually accompanied by lunch and a swim at the Hatta Fort Hotel. I know someone who has been doing this every month for five years. The lunch must be very good.

But there is so much more to see. The first time most people leave Dubai by car, they realise that the mountains are only an hour away. You drive past the large orange sand dunes, and the aptly named Big Red, scattered with the revving 4x4 ants scuttling around, and then the rocky outcrops start to appear.

When you first arrive in Hatta you might think that there is not much to recommend it. On a prominent roundabout, the hotel is one of the first buildings you see, with a parade of shops opposite and then you wonder: “is that it?” Turn right at the roundabout and the narrow lane takes you into the village where you start to get a peak at real Hatta life.

Our first stop was the Hatta Heritage Village nestled between two fortified hills that, although only a short climb, offer lovely views of the surrounding area. This is considered to be one of the oldest habited areas in the area, and the Heritage Village gives a glimpse of the Bedouin past with restored traditional mud barasti houses surrounding the fort complete with bedrooms, majlis and kitchen.

Once you’ve found your historical grounding head to the hills for a picnic. There is quite a lot of road development, but the way is easy even if mostly off-road. You’ll follow water courses, or falaj, and eventually park at Hatta Pools. The deep refreshing pools and waterfalls are reviving, but the calm mirage can mask the danger: given their narrow design flash floods are possible in rainy weather.

Hatta Pools has two reputations. It is a wonderful, geographically interesting, canyon carved by cooling water, where you can take a wander up and down the rock faces and through the pools, have a picnic and watch local boys jump from the cliff tops, leaving their common sense behind them.

Then there is the mess. Bottles, rubbish and graffiti unfortunately litter some of the popular rest spots. It’s a shame that people can’t respect their natural habitats.

However, it’s worth the day trip, even if you only do it once. We’ll be going back.

The practical bit:

What to read: Make sure you have a map. The mountain roads can be difficult to navigate and there are no signposts. Try the Explorer guide: UAE off-road.

Visa: Although Hatta is in the UAE, you will be briefly passing through Oman. This means you’ll be going through checkpoints and will require your passport. The UAE exit checkpoint is a good distance from the Oman entry checkpoint and there is nothing stopping you driving through. You’ll only realise your mistake when you arrive at the Omani checkpoint and get sent back. Driving towards Hatta you’ll come across some low-rise buildings on the right. Stop and make sure you get your exit stamp. You will also be required to have Omani car insurance for your brief drive through Oman.

Hatta Heritage Village: Turn right at the Hatta fort roundabout (04 852 1384). Admission is free.

Hatta Pools: From the Dubai-Hatta highway, turn right at the fort roundabout and follow the Mahdah road through Hatta village. With the Heritage Village on your right drive down the hill and turn right toward the village of Jeemah. The tarmac disappears after the UAE checkpoint. Follow the gravel track to the pools. You can continue passed the pools and continue along the gravel track passed the villages of Ray and Shuwayhah. At the T-junction turn right back towards Dubai-Hatta Road.

Muscat, the jewel in the crown
Muscat is a shy, respectful grand dame, who shows a different side of her character each time you visit.

The old city of Muscat has been the country's capital since 1793, and it is still the palaces, souqs and museums detailing the rich history, that draw thousands of tourists.

But in terms of modern development, Muscat’s crown jewels include the Opera House and Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, along with a growing handful of modern, luxury hotels, which are supplying the increasing demand from Western tourists.

Muscat means “place of anchorage”. It is one of the few natural harbours in Oman, and so the watery docks are a great place to start any tour of the city. Here are some highlights:

·      A great day out starts at the fish market on the Corniche, which offers the hustle and bustle of a traditional market. Then visit the Bait al Baranda museum for a historical perspective, and return to the Corniche, where you can walk all the way to Al Alam Palace, which is the ceremonial palace of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos of Oman. Visit the Mutrah souq in the evening.

·      Visit the rambling streets of the souq at Mutrah in the evening, and spend time talking to the shopkeepers, who offer wonderful insight into life in Muscat. From beautiful Syrian marquetry boxes to traditional Omani silver khanjars and to pure silk pashminas from Kashmir, you can travel the globe just by walking through the souq. Take in the sounds and smells as well as the sights. Breath in the incense, listen to the music. Although becoming more and more geared towards entertaining tourists, it’s still one of the best souqs I’ve been to.

·      If you’d like to do some walking, you can trek from Riyam to Mutrah (path C38) along a historic path that used to serve as the only way to get to Muscat other than by sea. There are some great views over the Gulf of Oman, but remember that the sun sets very quickly so don’t leave too late in the day as the route is quite remote. The walk takes around three hours, depending on whether you have young children with you.

·      Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque: A modern beauty with carved stone archways, Swarovski crystal chandeliers, Persian carpets and five minarets representing the five pillars of Islam, the mosque was opened in 2001. 

Partly due to modernisation, but partly due to her rich tapestry of proud heritage and history, the city can be visited time and time again and each visit will leave you with contrasting memories.

Coastal life: Watching feasting fish and tracking turtles

The fishing town of Sur is a pretty place to spend some time. With a long sweeping corniche, that provides picturesque views towards a natural cove it’s the perfect place to refuel.

Proud of its dhow building history some of the fishing vessels have been mounted on dry land so you have the opportunity to have a good look around. Hand-made from teak, often without any blue prints, the dhow is a status symbol and a reflection of a rich sea-faring heritage.

We walked up to the spit of land and flagged down a little boat, which ferried people back and forth the waterway. Until recently, when a road bridge was constructed, it was the only way to get across this expanse of water without going all the way round the lagoon. Mubarak, our ferryman, had lived in Sur all his life and gave us a little insight into the development of the town, which is a popular holiday destination for Omanis. He took us to the sand bars in the middle of the lagoon and then back up the water way to the opposite spit of land, where the village of Al Ayjah sits perched on the edge.

Given its remote position, it remains untouched, but the traffic now thunders over the bridge and a major road skims its edges. There is a lighthouse at the mouth of the lagoon, and pretty white low-rise buildings, broken periodically by mosque minarets. In the centre a fort proudly stands, guarded by two cannons, and surrounded by frisky goats that jump on and off parked cars. Remind me not to park where goats’ roam.

In stark contrast to the neat boxy houses we could see from afar, tucked in between were crumbing remnants of old buildings, now home to various livestock, who were not able to appreciate the faded grandeur or ornately carved doors. What I appreciated most was the lack of commercialism. This little hamlet, close enough to Sur to feel part of the modernised world, hadn’t been tempted to put up neon signs or open its doors for a quick dollar. From the trio of watch towers keeping out a beady eye, to the watchful and interested gaze of the residents, Al Ayjah felt like a town proud to have one foot in the past.

We walked back over the bridge, which gave us a super vantage point. While eating lunch, looking across the bay earlier, we had been treated to a show of silver flying fish teasing a rather frustrated looking heron. On top of the bridge we were able to see thousands of tiny fish swaying in its watery swarm, teasing bigger fish that darted and chased the piscatorial waves. The bigger fish leapt and dived with such force, but all they seemed able to do was divide the shoal, which very quickly morphed back together again. A lone heron stood on the bank, with what I hope was a look of bemusement on his face. He wasn’t the only one to fail at feasting on fast food.

Our accommodation for the night was the Turtle Beach Resorts, at Ras al Hadd. Hidden away down a dusty track and situated right on the beach, it is a quaint little place to stay, and the perfect location for trips to see the turtles. The rooms, made to look like barasti huts, are basic, but clean, some with en-suites and air conditioning. There is an evening buffet on the veranda of the dhow restaurant, overlooking a calm bay, and despite being family-friendly, surprisingly peaceful.

The resort arranged nightly trips to a nearby turtle beach in the evenings. We follow a snake of cars, led by a local guide. I had anticipated the excitement of seeing these gentle giants in the wild, but I don’t think I really appreciated how big they are. The one we met, and eventually followed into the sea, was about a metre long. It’s a rather breathtaking sight, especially when you compare it to its six centimetre babies. Madeleine, our eldest daughter was excited to be able to save a baby from being trampled on, and after much persuading that “Goldie”, the baby turtle, was better off with her mother than being kept as a pet, it was gently released into the sea.

Our final adventure was at Wadi ash Shab. Billed as one of the greatest walks in Oman, we were not disappointed. After crossing the wadi in a boat, the walk was easy going, passing several plantations and rock pools. The way gets steeper, and the rocks get bigger. At one point you walk along a ledge in the rock face, difficult but not impossible with children. The finale is, however, not suitable for young children or weak swimmers. At the last rock pool you have to swim 50m to a small gap in the rock face, which you either squeeze through or swim under, reappearing in a small cave with a waterfall flooded with light. It’s a fantastic reward.

The practical bit

What to do:
·      Visit the Turtles. There is a conservation centre at Ras Al Jinz.
·      Visit the hidden cave at Wadi ash Shab, near Tiwi, off route 17.

Where to stay:
Turtle Beach Resorts is at Ras al Hadd: www.tbroman.com

What to read:
·      Oman Trekking by Explorer
·      Oman Off-Road by Explorer

Keep you eye out for:
·      The tiger rock: on the left side of the road towards Sur just after the Khawr Jirama lagoon.
·      The 13th century tomb of Bibi Maryam, 20 minutes outside Sur at the ancient fishing village of Qalhat on route 17.

A bit of trivia:
·      Sur was famous for its dhow building in the 19th and 20th centuries, with a heritage spanning 2,000 years. The handicrafts and skills needed to create a boat without drawings have been passed on from generation to generation. The boatyards are open if you want to see how the work is done and there is also a maritime museum so you can get close up to ships of all sizes.

The desert: Swimming from the bottom of the sea upon a dune

Leaving the mountains behind, our scenery changed very suddenly and very dramatically. On top of the mountain we had see fossils of fish and snails, which hinted at an aquatic past. At the foot of the mountain, rock faces at perplexing angles, and varying degrees, crashing into the horizontal sea bed, which was wide and vast. It was strange to image we were driving along what could have been the bottom of the sea once upon a time.

On the way to the town of Ibra we discovered a beautiful ruin, which we were told by a local passer-by was a meeting place. The crumbling mud and stone chips traced out a majlis and water tunnels, as well as a 15m well. Against the backdrop of the mountains it was a stark reminder that all over these peaks man has survived on little more than their wits in remote homesteads that still created a hierarchical community based on order and respect.

After Ibra, the rocky outcrops suddenly gave way to the golden sand dunes of Wahiba, which rolled away for as far as the eye could see. At the village of Al Wasil, we turned right and headed straight for the Sharqiya Sands, and after 11km reached a fenced tented community that was to be our home for two nights.

We arrived at the end of the day and were ushered out of the camp and into a 4x4, which took us to the top of a dune where we watched the orange sun bounce along the dune opposite before pocketing itself into a hideaway, bringing the camp into dusk and then total darkness. Watching the sun dive over a dune is a must-see desert experience. Whether the wind is whipping up a storm, or everything is completely calm, the colours, shapes and lack of sounds make this an unforgettable and magical moment. We were so far from a major town we couldn’t even see any light pollution, exactly as nature intended.

The next day we packed plenty of water and snacks and headed back to the mountains, but not before stopping to see the fort at Al-Mintarib, just a couple of kilometres south of the main highway. It was a great insight into bygone living and architecture, from the cramped jail to the crenulated battlements.

Back on the main road we then turned left climbing towards Wadi Bani Khalid. Each wadi brings with it a different experience. This area is famous for its clear pools, which are so enticing it’s hard not to jump straight in. Brave souls climb the canyons and plummet straight into the hidden depths, which are surprisingly deep. The more timid are content to sit on the rocky ledges and let the tiny fish nibble at their feet, a spa treatment that many would pay for.

There are good facilities, which leave it more like a park than a natural oasis, but follow the water further up the canyon and you’ll find secluded pools and streams, fed from a spring. The route can be slippery, with rocks buffed to a shine from passers-by, but we managed it perfectly with the children. At the top of the wadi is Moqal Cave, which should only be visited with a guide and a torch. 

Our final trip of the day was to the village of Bidah, at the mouth of Wadi Bani Khalid, where we climbed to the top of the village for a view down the gorge of date palm farms, a verdant oasis set against the baron rock. We were on the hunt for red bananas, but left unsatiated, we will have to try another day. There is so much to see and explore, the dunes and mountains demand more than one visit.

The practical bit

What to do:
·      Ruined meeting place, about 10km outside of Ibra. Head away from the town on route 23 and the ruins are on your left.
·      Fort at Al-Mintarib.
·      Wadi Bani Khalid is about 40 mins from Al Wasil. It’s a lovely spot for a picnic, swimming and meandering through the wadi. If you’re planning to swim make sure you dress conservatively and swim in shorts and t-shirt.

Where to stay:
The Desert Nights camp 11 km from Al Wasil is a great oasis in the middle of the dunes. The permanent ensuite tents, with electricity and water, really ensure even people who don’t like roughing it will be comfortable. It’s glamping, not camping. The site has 26 tents, a bar and a restaurant. Each evening and at daybreak you can watch the sun dancing along the dunes. There is a full range of extra activities from dune bashing to sightseeing. www.desertnightscamp.com

What to read:
·      Oman Trekking by Explorer
·      Oman Off-Road by Explorer


For more photos please visit our Flickr page by clicking here.

Hunting for hidden villages, deserted hamlets and breathtaking views

With dark thick clouds of deep blue and purple boiling and churning overhead, and spots of rain on the windscreen, the dramatic weather matched the surroundings perfectly.

The nearest edges of the Western Hajar mountains cut through the mist to peak out enticingly as we drove further from the UAE/Oman border. But hidden secrets lay out of sight around each hairpin bend as we climbed higher and higher. Valleys opened up, villages appeared out of nowhere, and new layers of peaks appeared out of the dark silhouettes. At every turn there was something new to see. And the weather did not break – no downpours, just a calm 25C.

This was a stark contrast to our city life. When we left, Dubai was dazzling in sunny 39C, and our focus was soft on the rolling dunes that lead you out of the metropolis. As soon as we reached the border the soft focus lifted to reveal the promise of adventure for those who love to explore.

This was the start of a five day trip that offered peaks, forts, traditional villages and so much more. I find it liberating to pack a car, throw in a couple of children and drive off to explore the horizon. The only things we planned was the accommodation – having young children you need a little security, although we would have managed with a tent and a cooler box.

Day one of our route took us from Dubai to Jebel al Akhdar in the Western Hajar mountains. There is so much you could see and do en route it’s worth stopping overnight and taking an extra day. It’s about a five hour drive plus stops at the border (at Hafit, which took two hours) and for lunch.

Ibri, which has a fort, is a good place to stop for lunch. Jabrin and Bahla are the next sizeable towns, again with forts. They are the starting points for trips to Jebel Shams, Oman’s highest mountain (3,075m). Nizwa, a little further down the road, is well known for its fort and souq. It is Oman’s second biggest tourist destination.

Our aim though was to visit the Jebel al Akhdar hilltop villages on the Saiq Plateau. Although a little off the main tourist train there are a lot of new hotels under development. Unfortunately a new hotel is being built on top of Diana’s lookout, a famous spot visited by the late British Princess of Wales, but the views are still spectacular.

This is a great area for walking, camping and exploring. From the meandering path that takes you through the hill top villages of Al Ayn and Ash Shirayjah, and along the traditional water ways (falaj), to the crumbling deserted villages at Wadi Bani Habib, where nothing remains except a few stones and memories, there is a lot to be discovered. The muted-coloured mountains resemble layers of play dough squashed together, left buckled, coiled and curved by the pressure.

The roads are tarmacked, and even though a 4x4 is required to gain access to the mountain range, the way is easy, although twisty and steep. The route weaves and meanders around the slopes, opening the way to endless exploration. I have spent too little time here – I urge you not to make the same mistake.

In part two we will take a trip to the desert. For more photos, please visit our Flickr page by clicking here.

The practical bit

Border crossing:
If you’re leaving from Dubai, start early as it’s difficult to judge the traffic at the border crossing. You will need to go through the UAE post for an exit visit and then the Oman post, a little further down the road, for your entry stamp. You will also need to have car insurance for Oman, which can be bought at the border post, or in advance from your regular insurance provider.

Safety:
The weather in the mountains is changeable. Flash floods are unpredictable so avoid camping in wadis. There is a police check point at Birkat Al-Mawz, just outside Nizwa. Although you can avoid going off-road, and the tarmacked roads are in good condition, you will not be allowed to pass the checkpoint without a 4x4 car.

Where to stay:
Sahab Hotel, Sayh Qutnah, Saiq Plateau: The view from here is worth the visit alone. This small, but spacious hotel, has 27 well appointed rooms, opening onto a fossil garden with a beautiful mountain top swimming pool. We stayed in a two room Rustic suite where the lounge sofa doubles as a bed for the children. The restaurant offers an a la carte menu at lunch time and in the evening there is a buffet. There is also a buffet, with egg and pancake station, at breakfast, which can be enjoyed on the veranda. The staff are welcoming and knowledgeable. www.sahab-hotel.com

What to do:
·      Walk (route W18b) from the Sahab Hotel. It’s a great walk where you’ll pass villages of mud and stone, clinging tightly to the cliffs, with steps of irrigated terraces spread out below. The path is rocky but pretty easy, and in places you can walk on the falaj (traditional stone water course). We managed the route with a six year old and a four year old, although in places some hand holding was required.

·      Visit the cave dwellers: From Birkat Al-Mawz take the tarmac road up the mountain. Once you’re on the Saiq Plateau, after the right hand turning to Al Manakhir, the road divides. Take the right fork. If you arrive at a petrol station you’ve gone the wrong way. Follow the winding road to Shinot village (If you miss the turning you’ll end up in Al Hail). In the village turn right. The tarmac will run out and turn into a steep dirt track. Eventually you’ll come to the cave village of Al Sawjrah. It’s little tricky to find as the road doesn’t go directly to the village. You’ll have to cross a small wadi on foot.

What to read:
·      Oman Trekking by Explorer
·      Oman Off-Road by Explorer

A bit of trivia:
The word “ayn” means natural spring.

Please note:
The English translation of Arabic place names means you may see the same name with different spellings.

I have soared like a bird. I have swum like a fish. And then I have returned to my human form to enjoy a nice cold beer at the end of the day, while sitting in a swimming pool.

Sometimes you need to escape the steamy urban swell of the city and ground yourself in nature. In little under three hours from Dubai we were in the mountains, drinking in the views and marvelling at the fresh air.

The Six Senses resort at Zighy Bay has been on my list of places to experience since we moved to the UAE two years ago. Just to tease myself I’d take a peek at the website and imagine a relaxing weekend, walking through the foam being throw on the beach by the waves. And then realised that it’s not really possible with a young family.

But it is and the reality didn’t quite match the imagination. It was better. It’s as simple as that. The prices are steep, but you’re not paying for a hotel room. You’re paying for an experience, and before you accuse me of being trite, let me explain.

Location: The approach and location of Zighy Bay is exhilarating. We left behind the coffee shops and market stalls of Dibba, weaved our way through the village of Daba and then tackled the dusty, sandy track that weaves into the Al Hajar Mountains. The rocky road to the resort clings to the hillside, and after several switchbacks you’re rewarded with your first glimpse of paradise. Accessible only by 4x4 or boat, and nestled in a little cove, you know this is a place to relax.

Accommodation: This is not a hotel. You don’t book a room. You book a villa. The rooms are large and there is attention to detail; whether you want to relax in your villa and play chess, watch TV or a DVD, lounge in an over-sized bathtub or simply relax in your private pool, it’s all here.

Service: You feel looked after, while at the same time as having your privacy respected. Your personal butler is at your service at the touch of a button. Having one person to look after you makes you feel respected and relaxed. It makes communication easier when someone understands your requests and knows your schedule.

Activities: You could spend your entire visit in your villa, chilling out in the pool, or on the beach, absorbing your surroundings, or in the spa having your worries rubbed away. Or you could jump off a mountain in a paraglider and sail and snorkel around the coast - we did both. Our girls loved the dhow cruise. Our guide, Humaid, was fun and informative, encouraging the children to swim and learn about the rocky caves and underwater life. And the children aren’t forgotten on land either. There is a children’s club and a teenagers’ club, with scheduled activities. Try archery, tennis, the jungle gym, mountain trekking, kayaking…shall I go on?!

I’ve make managed to tick Zighy Bay on my list. But I’m not taking it off my list – I want to go back for more.

For more photographs please click here.

The practical bit:
The border: Non-UAE and Omani nationals have to cross at the Corniche border post, but please don't just turn up or you'll get sent back. You need a hotel reservation and the hotel needs to add your name to a list at the crossing. 

Accommodation: Each of the 82 villas has a private pool. The resort is laid out to resemble a rustic Omani village. You can wander the sandy street or pedal your way around.

Sustainability: The resort prides itself on being sympathetic with its environment. There is a 2,500 square metre organic garden, which provides vegetables, fruits and herbs, and the grounds are home to more than 130 fig trees and 1,000 date palm trees which are harvested annually.

A touch of class: Six Senses Zighy Bay has a library where guests can relax, read a book and surf the internet. The library also houses the resorts many awards for Best Destination Spa – Oman (World Luxury Spa Awards), Oman’s Leading Resort and Oman’s Leading Spa Resort (World Travel Awards) and Best Sustainable Initiative and Best Hotel (Middle East Hotel Awards) to name a few.

For the resort’s website click here.   

Riding the Arabian dragon’s spiny backbone
Part 1: Al Hajar mountains from Oman
If you look at an aerial map of the Arabian peninsula, you could imagine that a fiendish dragon or dinosaur had laid its weary head down to sleep on the soft, warm sand and fallen asleep. Over the years the wind blew the sand dune over its sleeping body like a blanket, leaving only the spiny backbone visible from the sky.

That is how I like to see the Al Hajar Mountains, which stretch more than 500km from the Omani tip in Musandam, crossing through the United Arab Emirates to the most easterly point of Oman near the fishing village of Sur.

This weekend’s adventure started on one side of the mountains, and ended on the other, without actually going over the top, which obviously would have been the more direct route.

When we have the opportunity we like to escape Dubai, with its technologically advanced skyscraper landscape, to find ourselves in the hills. With the help of a babysitter, we left the children at home for a short overnight trip to take part in a running race to the top of Wadi Bih, near Dibba, Oman; More than 75km of wadi bashing on foot for fun.

However, before our race could begin our first hurdle was not getting across the mountains but getting across the border. Sharjah authorities now demand that UAE residents present proof of a hotel stay or booking with a dhow operator to enter Oman at this crossing, so if you plan to camp you may face some challenges. We had given our passport details to the race organisers who did everything they could to smooth the path, but regardless we were turned back at the border until we had found a policeman wandering around with our name on his list. Now you may think that we would have to prove our identity and we would be stamped or given of permission slip to pass thorough the iron gates of bureaucracy. No. I pointed to the list, and said: “That’s me.” The policeman said: “Tell the guard Khalid said it’s ok.” And that was it.

This is not even a visa issue. If you hold a tourist visa, rather than a resident’s visa you’re exempt. So the reason for the change in crossing logistics is unclear. It could be to stop people with debts absconding and escaping by boat, but seeing as the Strait of Hormuz is the watery home of pirates, smugglers and Iranian sailors, it’s not a great route, especially when you can head to Muscat with no problems.

All that is clear is that local businesses are suffering as adventurous thrill seekers search for rocks and wadis to scramble over somewhere else.

The landscape, though, cannot be tainted by this little hiccup. The powerful dragon lies sleeping peacefully on the beach, and did not react when we tickled him by running up and down his spine. The views are spectacular. The strata of the rock wiggles its way uphill ending in a rainbow of colour. It’s almost worth running the 35km or so up to the top just for the view.

Frustratingly the border restrictions mean you have to return via the same border post. There is a gravel track that runs from Dibba through the Musandam peninsula to Khasab and forks to link up with Ras al Khaimah. But the route is closed unless you are an Omani or UAE national.


Part 2: Al Hajar from Ras al Khaimah
The second part of our trip took on a completely different flavor. The dust, energy and eventual exhaustion of our first trip was replaced by a relaxing, peaceful time within the sanctuary of a beach resort. The Hilton Ras al Khaimah Resort and Spa describes itself as where “barefoot luxury meets fun and adventure, and goes hand in hand with relaxation”. And that’s what we got. It’s a popular haunt for tourists and Dubai residents. 

Ras al Khaimah, which means "Top of the Tent" possibly in reference to the mountains, isn’t a bustling city but its history dates back to the 3rd Millennium BC, when it was know as Julfar. It’s a good base to visit the mountains, but routes can be dangerous, so it’s worth going with a guide. 

The Stairway to Heaven is one example. It offers magnificent views and was created Bedouins to give access from Wadi Galilah in Ras al Khaimah to the high mountain villages located just over the border in Oman. With drops of 300 metres, and with over 2,000 metres of ascent and descent, it is not for the faint hearted and accidents are not unknown. 

If you’re looking for day trips that don’t leave your pulse racing or your heart pounding, Ras al Khaimah is also a good base to visit the nearby thermal springs at Khatt, and the Musandam peninsula for a spot of dolphin watching.

However, with its spa, watersports, beach, pools, kids’ club and a good range of restaurants you might never leave the hotel. I never say no to chilling out…but then again I never say know to the chance to climb on a dragon’s back either.

What to read: UAE and Oman Off-Road guides, published by Explorer.

Information on border restrictions

Information on Stairway to Heaven

Information on Musandam trip

Where to stay: Hilton Ras al Khaimah Resort and Spa, 

What to do: Dhow trip around Musandam peninsula; thermal springs at Khatt, mountain walks.

What you need to know: You can cross into Oman at the Tibat border post, and back again, but at time of writing you can not create a circular route through to Dibba, unless you are an Omani or UAE national, due to border restrictions at that crossing. If you want to cross into Oman at the Dibba border post you’ll need to book accommodation in advance, and the hotel or your tour operator will make crossing arrangements for you. It is currently not possible to cross the border to camp on the beach with a UAE resident’s visa.

And finally: Don’t forget your passport.

Please note: Hotels and activities mentioned are only suggestion. They have been tried and tested by us anonymously. Other places to stay are available, depending on your preferences and budget. We are not able to provide an exhaustive list of hotels – those mentioned are a result of our travel experience.

I am standing, or to be precise wobbling, on a boat as it bobs about on the leaden water, storm clouds brewing above. For a moment I truly believe that I’m in the Norwegian Fjords. I can see the harsh, honest beauty of the surrounding cliffs and caves, and I’m shivering while being lashed by rain.

But I’m not in Norway. I’m not even in Europe. I’m in Oman, in Musandam, the most northerly tip of the Arabian peninsula.

The weekend’s adventure started with a drive from Dubai through an impressive sandstorm, which enveloped the car and left miniature dunes on the road. Swallowed up by the dust we arrived at the Omani border just in time for the sand on our car to be turned into a thick mud mask by a downpour. And that was pretty much the weather pattern for the weekend.

Don’t get me wrong, as a Brit I’m used to the odd downpour, but this being the Middle East, and a desert, I didn’t have any waterproofs. Baden Powell would not have been impressed. I was not prepared.

Books to read: UAE and Oman Off-Road guides, published by Explorer. www.explorerpublishing.com

Where to camp: 1. Beach at Khasab; 2. Beach at Khawr an Najd - turn left off Wadi Sal Al A’la road at military range and take steep track over mountain; 3. Acacia forest at end of Wadi Sal Al A’la road.

Leave nothing behind. If building a fire dig a hole and cover it up after when the embers have cooled. For everything else bag it and bin it.

Boat trip: There are several options and plenty of companies offering similar trips. We travelled with Khasab Travel and Tours (+968 2673 0464). You can join a scheduled dhow for 20-25 people costing 200 Dhs per adult for a full day and 100 Dhs for a child. Children under five are free. You can charter your own dhow for 1,500 Dhs for a four hour tour. Note: Although the local currency is Omani Rials, UAE Dirhams are widely accepted.

Visa: Tourist visas are available at the border crossing. You will also need to arrange Oman car insurance, which can be done at the border too, or in advance.

Note of warning: You can cross into Oman at the Tibat border post, and back again, but at time of writing you can not create a circular route through to Dibba, unless you are an Omani or UAE national, due to border restrictions at that crossing.

And remember: Don’t forget your passport, or your swimming costume.

It was on a longer road trip that we were able to get an insight into the Omani’s way of life, which is very different from the urban Emiratis’. En route to Muscat we had lunch at a pretty colonial style hotel. The place was empty except for six locals, in national dress, drinking beer at the bar. What’s strange about that? you ask, until you remember that the Gulf is effectively dry to Muslims. I met a lovely Omani lady through the course of my work, and she explained to me that alcohol wasn’t such a taboo for Muslims in Oman. Their culture is more liberal, less judgmental. Or it could have been that this hotel wasn’t in a busy city so a blind eye was turned? Everyone has a different opinion and it can be a touchy subject. I’m quite partial about a glass of wine, and would not judge other drinkers. For me religion plays not part in and individual’s grape or grain decision, although I believe for some people alcohol is religion in itself. I would not necessarily assume that a Muslim who takes the decision to have a drink is a bad Muslim, but you are judged differently by your peers.

It’s funny how you make snap judgments based on nationality, especially when you live in a cultural melting pot like Dubai. When you first move here you think everyone is racist, but you quickly come to realise that while stereotyping people can be dangerous, it can also be a shortcut to understanding how the place ticks.

I think you can even judge someone’s nationality from the car they drive. I’ll leave you with some examples:

·       Toyota Prado – expat family (Western)

·       Mitsubishi Pajero – expat family (Indian). By the way, if you’re not of a sensitive disposition, look up the meaning of Pajero in the Spanish dictionary. What were the marketing department thinking of?!)

·       Jaguar – older British expat

·       Maserati - Emirati

·       Bentley – Emirati

·       Any supercar - Emirati

·       Mercedes G-wagon AMG – Sheikh