Going round in circles: roundabouts I have loved
The topic of traffic and terrible driving is a popular one among expats in Dubai, who like to spend the evening chewing the cud over a glass of wine. And it is little wonder that the habits of some leave a lot to be desired.

As part of the Trucial States, British law governed the roads that were to form the new UAE, and therefore people drove on the left. However, with independence in 1971, and the growing influence of its Saudi neighbours, the decision was taken to switch sides. I’m not saying you should have sympathy with the 18 year old driving a Maserati, who cuts you up by crossing five lanes in one go. But there is possibly an inherent reason why driving standards are poor.

Another reason could be that as Dubai is such a melting pot of cultural diversity, different road rules and habits are thrown together in a kind of road ratatouille. The courteous driving habits of one driver might be getting in the way of the speed thrills of another, for example.

The third reason is the pace at which the road networks and number of drivers is expanding. Fifty years ago Dubai had fewer than fifty cars. Today there are more than 1 million. The roads are clogged with minibuses, taxis, supercars and 4x4s making the driving experience a test of nerves and patience.

I’m not going to name and shame but you can almost identify someone’s nationality by their driving style. While one country’s representative might have a 40% chance of causing an accident, another national statistically has a 400% chance of being the culprit. 

This is not, however, an analysis of driving, but rather a prelude to the fun you can have while driving. On our travels, we have seen some spectacular road systems, interesting signs and wonderful roundabouts. (Yes, I can really be that boring). And this is the topic of the day.

Roundabouts were introduced by the British. (I’m sure parts of the inheritance were more exiting.) But we’re talking about more than a road system here. We’re talking about well known landmarks that provide anchor points to lost travellers when the lack of road names offer few clues.

There is a saying that you know you’ve been in Dubai too long if, when asking for directions to the building opposite, you receive the answer “left, second right, third right, first left”, and that sounds normal. This isn’t a point and shoot society. You can’t aim your vehicle in the general direction you want to go and hope everything will be ok. And forget satnav. Road networks change overnight. Several times I’ve been lost coming home from work.

And even when you do find a street name, it might have two names; an official name and a nickname. Or a historical one and a new one. And forget about the ambiguity created by the different spellings caused by translating names from Arabic.

So roundabouts became important navigation points, and as such the central space within the roundabout has been haloed by some pretty creative monuments and sculptures. I’m pretty fond of the fish roundabout in Fujairah, so named because, well, I’ll let you work it out. And the oyster and pearl roundabout in Ras al Khaimah is pretty special too.

So you see, despite the frustrating, nerve wracking, perilous journeys we make in our cars, roundabouts never fail to raise a smile and lighten the mood. Just make sure you pay attention to the road to ensure you don’t miss your exit and get lost. Once lost you may never be found again.

So, the World did not end. And although I feel a little bit wobbly from the excesses of Christmas, I’m still standing.

The start of a year is a good time to reflect on the past year, clear the slate and plan for the coming year. So what have I got planned?

But before I start thinking of destinations, ticking things off my list, I’ve been thinking about trying to answer the question: “What is travel and adventure?” 

My immediate reaction would be to say it’s about climbing every mountain, fording every stream, following every rainbow…. Hang on. I think I’ve just had a Christmas movie flashback. Truthfully though, I am the type of person to tick off lists. Just ask my husband. But I’m also the type of person who likes to challenge myself, not to be better than anyone else, just to see if I can do it and build confidence.

So let’s take that as a starting point. 

Answer no 1: Travel and adventure help you to build confidence.

I’ve visited 48 countries in four decades. In case you’re wondering there are around 200 countries. It’s almost impossible to say how many exactly – as soon I research the number, someone declares independence, or the United Nations ratifies another application. The point is that borders change, but patriotism doesn’t, and that’s why borders change. The only constant in this is that borders will continue to change. How people respond to their environment is an investigation in itself. Why do people live where they do? This is a question that can only be answered by overlaying different perspectives and asking questions. The answer may be historical, geographic or political. But is always fascinating. In one trip I’ll learn about how the Kiribatis survive on the remote Pacific islands, and on another excursion I’ll learn why the Hisatsinom homes cling to the Mesa Verde cliffs in the US.  

Answer no 2: If the World is a jigsaw, travel and adventure help you to understand how to put the jigsaw together.

That seems to be a pleasing balance. One answer is about the traveller and the other is about the destination. The Yin and Yang of travel: complementary and interconnected.

I didn’t have to travel far to have this theory tested though. My two little girls don’t travel and explore with the predetermined agenda of an adult. We drag them around with us. But adventure is another matter. The meaning was reflected in my three year-old’s face as she casually cruised by me on her scooter (a little bit cocky for my liking, which is probably why she crashed). It was also reiterated in the face of my five year old as she wobbled on her new bike without stabilisers. For my children, these experiences were about what they could do in their surroundings.

So maybe that’s the final answer that ties these musings together:

Answer no 3: Travel and adventure is about learning something new – about you and your environment.

Happy New Year and happy travelling. This year I’m looking forwards to country cottages in the UK, remote tropical island beaches, an African adventure – and a reinforced bank balance.

Where does this road go to?
Well, we’ve been in Dubai for three months now. It’s has flown by. We’ve settled much more quickly than in Chicago. In fact, we have a closer community structure surrounding us. 

A true expat lifestyle means that you slot into a gap left by someone else. Relationships are fluid. They are mutually supportive. Everyone is in the same boat. People move out and others fill the space. Despite the transient nature of expat living, I’d like to think that these relationships have depth, a bond created by similar experiences and the trials of settling into a new life in a new country.

So what observations have I made so far?

Finger in the air, let’s start with the subject of roads, cars and traffic. The city of Dubai is pretty flat, but you don’t have to travel more than an hour for a dramatic change in the terrain. There’s a new highway to Fujairah, for example, so it’s now possible to make a comfortable day trip. The road it pretty impressive; it’s difficult to see how the constructors decide where to start digging. When you have wide expanses of flat desert in front of you, I’m pretty sure you just point the compass and pour the tarmac. 

But when faced with a jagged peak do you look for the path of least resistance or just point the compass again and blast it to kingdom come? In a matter of minutes you can be driving through red sand dunes on a road so flat you wouldn’t even need to check your spirit level. Then you blink and you’re climbing cathedral peaks, safe in the knowledge that your trusty 4x4 will guide you. Never given much thought to roads before. Maybe it’s time I took up another hobby.

The Dubai adventure begins
The girls and I have been in Dubai for a week now. It has taken its toll on our health, our patience, our nerves, but through gritted teeth I tell myself I will not surrender my sense of humour. Let’s see.

All sorts of things have been happening. Again my life appears to be a soap opera or a comedy of errors. We said goodbye to our US life, everything was packed up into boxes and we flew back to the UK. The same day Andy travelled on to Dubai and I was left bouncing the bonny lasses as best I could. They were unsettled to say the least and even the treats dangled by grandparents couldn’t distract them. But after nearly three weeks they started sleeping through the night again, just in time for us to change time zone. It was great to catch up with family and friends but a tug being part from Andy.

The first nightmare was the journey to Dubai. It’s true to say I wasn’t relishing the idea of travelling alone with an attention deficient four year old and a wriggling two year old. That said they weren’t the initial problem. The chosen airline (I should really name and shame shouldn’t I?!) picked us up from my parents’ house in Kent and what should have been a forty-minute journey took nearly two and a half hours. By the time we got to Gatwick the check-in desk was shut. Cue Oscar performance. There was no need for stage paint and powder to whiten my face. After all, we weren’t just going on holiday. We were moving country. Again.

A sudden change of heart (I hadn’t even reached my grand tearful finale) they checked us in and escorted us to the plane, rushing us through the airport on the back of a buggy.

So I settled the girls into their seats, found the cartoons and swiped the last few glasses of champagne as they floated by. Then Tilda, the baby, decided, even though it has never happened with her sixteen previous teeth, to have teething nappies for the entire flight. It wasn’t pleasant for anyone, least of all for Tilda who had full on nappy rash, and even my Mary Poppins’ handbag could not deliver a solution. She was so uncomfortable. And in her anguish knocked over a glass of Champagne (mine not hers). So I was left with a screaming two year old, an empty nappy bag and frayed nerves that left me on edge.

Then after seven hours in the air, we landed and were to be met by a porter. He didn’t arrive. So I struggled with two very tired girls at the end of their tether, with Tilda literally reined to the trolley. And then remembered I was under strict instructions from hubby to buy duty free to ensure that for the other hard days that were sure to be on the horizon, we at least had some vodka and gin in an almost-dry country.

Andy met us like a knight in shining armour, and the girls flung themselves at his feet. Madeleine had even been practicing her running hug, like a lovelorn lover running along the surf of a beach. She could almost gallop in slow motion.

So we arrived at the hotel and opened the door to a lovely apartment, so filled with acrid cigarette smoke that a jazz club owner would have been embarrassed. There was no way we could stay there, so we got the girls into their pyjamas and moved room for what was to be the second of three room changes in twelve hours. 

The week really has been a blur though. I’m house hunting during the day, as well as getting the girls settled at school, researching British curriculum schools, shopping, washing clothes, getting to know the area, trying not to get myself killed on the eight lane spine road; Sheik Zayed Road. It really is crazy.

Talking of driving, Andy got his first fine and points the first day he drove here by going down a one-way street the wrong way. In defence, it was a two-way street, which turned into a one-way street, and the sign was covered up by a tree. The policeman was just pulling people in left, right and centre, so he obviously knew it was a blackspot and did nothing to improve the situation, which was a cash cow really. And they say there is no tax here. As long as that's the only car related problem we have. And to be honest seeing as Andy got a parking ticket in the States, and now this, he can stop bleating at me about being a superior driver with a clean license.

Despite all the headaches we’ve had this week, and those to come, I think we will have a good life here. The weather is great, especially as it has started to cool down. It only reached 36C today. We’ve met some lovely friendly people already, so the true expat life is much easier. Once we’ve found a car, house, school, bank account and haven’t drowned in a sea of paperwork.