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Singapore restaurant review: Taking tiffin 

28/7/2014

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The Tiffin Room, Raffles Hotel, SingaporeTaking tiffin
The Tiffin Room at Raffles Hotel
"Would you like to go for a Princess Tea?" I asked my two daughters. It's the summer holidays and the long days seem to stretch in front of us. "We could go and get dressed up and have little sandwiches and cakes."

Madeleine and Tilda jumped up and down in front of me, excited as puppies being throw a stick.

We were heading to The Tiffin Room, at Raffles Hotel, for lunch.

A trip to Raffles is like stepping into a time machine. Steeped in history, the grandfather clock in the hall may still be ticking, but time has stood still. It's not that I walk around with rose-coloured spectacles. I like to think that I'm fairly progressive (did I hear my husband just scoff?), but I love to preserve the past, otherwise it's difficult to learn from it for the future.

Architecturally, the hotel has had some pretty hideous alterations over the years, including a flat roof ballroom plonked right in front of its beautiful facade. However, more recently the layers of paint and patina have been rubbed away, unsympathetic additions have been erased, furniture has been lovingly recrafted to match originals identified in photographs, and the Victorian colonial era has been preserved.

And what could be more British than immortalising Singapore's founder, Sir Stamford Raffles, by building the hotel in his name? Its creators, the Sarkies brothers, were not Brits however, but Armenian, born in Iran. Regardless, Raffles is the epitome of English, colonial grandeur, with sweeping staircases, clipped lawns and polished brass. In December 1887, a ten-roomed hotel opened its doors – today there are 103 suites. The Tiffin Room was opened in 1892. In 1987 the hotel was designated a National Monument by the Singapore Government.

The Tiffin Room is white, airy and spacious, with huge picture windows. Holding the hands of my two princesses, we entered with a great sense of occasion. There was a familiar smell in the air and it wasn't the aroma of tea. Forget the sandwiches. I had mistaken tiffin for tiffin, and they are entirely different.

It’s fascinating how names have evolved over time, and taken on different meanings. After my visit I asked several people what they thought the word “tiffin” meant. Half said afternoon tea and half said curry. A little research was required to get to the bottom of this confusion, and here are the results:

Tiffin is slang for a snack between meals, such as second breakfast or an afternoon tea. According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the word itself is derived from the word “tiffing”, which is now obsolete, and means to take “a little drink or sip”. The term tiffin originated in British India. In South India and Nepal, tiffin is a general term used to describe a snack between meals. In other parts of India, such as Mumbai, the term refers to a packed lunch of rice, dal, curry and spices, and the special container became known as the tiffin-box.

Ironically, curry has practically become the modern British national dish, so I shouldn't have been surprised. I have to admit though to being a bit of a lightweight when it comes to spicy foods, and I wondered what Madeleine and Tilda would think. Tilda, it turns out, has inherited my delicate taste buds. Madeleine, on the other hand, vacuumed everything up, exciting by the opportunity to try new tastes.

The lunchtime curry buffet caters for lightweights and those hardened to spice. Creamy chicken curries, crisp poppadoms, aromatic lentil curries, sweet treats and, to top it off, an Indian Sauvignon Blanc, that was surprising fresh, pairing perfectly with the spices.

So I have learnt that tiffin is a curry meal. And given its alternative meaning as a snack between meals, we plan to return to The Tiffin Room for afternoon tea in our Princess dresses another day.

The practical bit:
Where to find it: Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Road, Singapore, 189673
Contact details: dining.singapore@raffles.com, +65 6412 1816
A bit of fact: In August 1902, the last tiger to be killed in Singapore was hunted down at the Raffles Hotel, and was shot while cowering under the Bar and Billiard Room. 

#raffles #restaurant #tiffin #singapore

Raffles Hotel, Singapore
Raffles Hotel
Raffles Hotel, Singapore
Main lobby
Raffles Hotel, Singapore
The Tiffin Room
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The meaning of travel: sitting still and absorbing life.

10/7/2014

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Travel to Hong KongWatching the world go by
The word travel means to “go from one place to another”, according to Oxford English Dictionary. It also means to undertake a journey – something you can do by sitting still. To me it offers the chance to learn about everyday life in different parts of the world. Just observing, I’m learning.

It's funny what you see when you just observe life. I visited Stanley at the weekend, on the south side of Hong Kong Island. Despite the pounding heat I took my skinny latte outside to a shady step to watch the world go by, while my two daughters ran around oblivious to the sizzling sun. In the space of five minutes I spotted three bizarre sights:

·       a young girl reclining on her rucksack wearing a tight vest top and extremely skimpy shorts, in what she interpreted as a seductive pose, while a photographer clicked away;
·       Young men running around topless, flexing their muscles, while their friends snapped away with their phones;
·       And perhaps the most bizarre, a woman tottering out of McDonald's en pointe in ballet shoes, trailed by yet another photographer.

The funny thing is I don't think any of these events being recorded for posterity were related, other than they involved photography. I wonder what else I'll spot if I just sit and watch...

What bizarre scenes have you seen whole sipping a cappuccino?

More on Hong Kong:
A weekend in Hong Kong: how do you spend 48 hours?

Hong Kong travel
Hong Kong travel
Keep your eyes open. You never know what you'll see.
Hong Kong travel
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A weekend in Hong Kong: Rainbow lights & culinary delights

10/7/2014

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Victoria Peak, Hong KongTaking a Peak at the view
Hong Kong restaurant reviews:
Living in Singapore we are perfectly placed to springboard into a range of weekend wonders. This weekend we headed to Hong Kong.

There is an entire top "must-see" list, which we've included below, but for bite-sized Hong Kong there is nothing better than to plan your weekend around food:

The hidden gem. You probably wouldn't stumble upon Upper Modern Bistro unless you had take a wrong turn - it's in a quiet back street in Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Island. However, what it lacks in location it makes up for in attention to detail, and attention to its customers. As a family with young children we're probably not always the easiest of diners to cater for; someone is allergic to mushrooms, someone is allergic to shellfish, both of which are plentiful on the menu.
However, every care was made to suit our needs. Great charcuterie, super cheeses, lamb cooked to perfection, and a chocolate dessert that kept the children happy. A modern French bistro fused with international flare.
Upper Modern Bistro, 6-14 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan, www.upper-bistro.com

The rainbow views. Aqua is an Italian and Japanese restaurant on the 29th and 30th floors of One Peking Road with a sense of occasion. It's Chinese sister restaurant occupies the same building. This is the place to see the sun set and watch the rainbow lights and lasers reflect in the Victoria Harbour. Unfortunately the service wasn't great the night we went (our table wasn’t ready, our wine wasn’t delivered until after our main course had been cleared) but there’s a fantastic view. The food is artfully created, with subtle flavours, but don’t expect plates piled high.
Aqua, 29 & 30 Floors, One Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 

Trendy tapas. Ship Street, in Wan Chai, is a destination that offers a range of culinary delights in the hustle and bustle of a nightlife hub. After a busy day sightseeing we were in need of what the Ham and Sherry had to offer; a cosy nook, a decent glass of Rioja and traditional tapas. Iberian ham, garlic fries and Manchego with quince. What's not to like? The only downside: it's a little place so go early if you don't want to get too cosy, and mind how many tempting dishes you order. It's not cheap eats.
Ham & Sherry, 1-7 Ship Streep, Wan Chai. 

Sightseeing: 48 hours in Hong Kong
Friday:
Day trip to Stanley on the south side of the island. Wander around the market and boardwalk to Blake Pier. Past Murray House, a forest path winds up the hill through Ma Hang Park. There are some great sea views and secluded beaches to explore, as well as the tiny Pak Tai Temple, built in 1805.
Getting there: Take the Island MTR line all the way to Chai Wan and outside the station take the 16X minibus to Stanley Market. To return pick up the minibus at the America point.

Saturday: Day trip to the island of Lantau, visiting the Big Buddha and the fishing village of Tai O. Take the MTR to Tung Chung. A Holiday 360 tour package includes return cable car to the top of the mountain and Ngong Ping heritage village, coach and guide to Tai O village and boat trip to see stilt houses and pink dolphins. You can buy tickets at the cable car terminus in Tung Chung. 

Sunday: Tram to the top of Victoria Peak for a breakfast with a view. Go early to beat the queues. The tram station is in Garden Road, a short walk from Admiralty or Central MTR stations.

Orientation:
Heart of city: Victoria Harbour, linking Kowloon and the island. Take a seat on upper deck of trams to get the best views. Buy a rechargeable Octopus card, which allows you to use most forms of public transport.

Staying longer in Hong Kong?
Things to do:
·      Wander around the regentrified area of Wan Chai.
·      Museum of Coastal Defence. Half ruined British fortifications at eastern entrance to Victoria Harbour. Built more than 100 years ago it was formerly known as the Lei Yue Mun Fort.
·      Cross the harbour between Kowloon and the island. Star Ferry or Aqua Luna, a replicate of a traditional Chinese ship with restaurant.
·      Cable car to Ocean Park. A theme park on the south side of the island. 
·      Hong Kong Park  and Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware (10 Cotton Tree Drive) Lock Cha Tea House next door.
·      Disneyland: One day ticket HK$450 (35GBP) for adults, HK$320 (25GBP) for children. Hong Kong Disneyland is located on Lantau Island, 20 minutes from Hong Kong International Airport and is a 30-minute MTR (Mass Transit Railway) ride from Central, Hong Kong.

More stories on Hong Kong:
The meaning of travel: sitting still and absorbing life.

Hong Kong night skyline
Rainbow at night
Hong Kong restaurants
Upper class at Upper Modern Bistro
Buy a rechargable Octopus card, which allows you to use most forms of public transport.
Big Buddha, Lantau
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