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Intrepid explorers in the Abu Dhabi mangroves – weekend escape

6/10/2013

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Abu Dhabi is a capital city. That’s an obvious statement. Now read this description:

Overlooking the knarled, knotted mangrove trees, lies a pocket of calm in the middle of a bustling city. With tiny blue crabs and chattering birds playing hide and seek beneath the low boughs, the mangroves are worth investigating. Our first visit involved a canoe. I felt like an intrepid explorer, pushing my way through sand bars and jungle vines, through narrow streams and open stretches of water. Momentarily I had been transported onto the film set of Mosquito Coast. It felt exotic and adventurous. I was half expecting a crocodile to jump up to greet us.

On the edge of this intriguing microcosm is Anantara’s Eastern Mangroves hotel.

Only an hour’s drive from Dubai, this is a great way to spend the weekend away from all the hustle and bustle, within arm’s reach of nature and the city. From the dust and distractions of the roads, buildings and city life, the hotel lobby acts as a transporter, moving you from urban to rural life.

The experience starts with a warm welcome and cool drink. As soon as you walk through the door, the light and airy foyer drawers your attention to the beautiful infinity pool over looking the swamps. Attention has been paid to detail; from the lavender water spray and cool towels you’re offered besides the pool to the presentation of food in the restaurants.

Our visit was co-ordinated for us to sample The Big Brunch, a deal that allows you to indulge in a beautifully prepared languishingly long lunch, sipping cocktails and wine, without having to worry about getting home – you only have to stagger to your room for an afternoon nap. And the food was delicious, whether you’re looking for Western or Eastern flare, carvery or sushi, or hope to try it all, accompanied by live music.

The hotel itself is calm in décor and calm in its approach. This is a hotel that doesn’t over-service, so if you’re looking for the noisy kids’ club and entertainment you might be disappointed. But if you wish to enjoy an aperitif on the funky rooftop bar overlooking the hidden secrets of the mangroves, or relax during a leisurely lunch, or a spa treatment, this is a great weekend get-away.

The practical bit

Accommodation: We stayed in a standard room with queen-sized bed, plus a roll away bed and a converted sofa for the children. The bathrooms are large with a shower and bath.

Brunch: There are three packages for The Big Brunch starting at AED 295++ up to a premium package that offers the finest wines and French bubbles for AED 495++.

The deal: The Big Weekend Special offers accommodation, buffet breakfast for two and The Big Brunch on Fridays for two people. Prices start at AED 1,200. Available until December 22, 2013 on Thursday and Friday night only. A bit of trivia: Anantara is taken from an ancient Sanskrit word that means 'without end'. For more information: www.anantara.com

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The Maldives of the Middle East – Sir Bani Yas, UAE

27/6/2013

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If Robinson Crusoe was marooned on this island I don’t think he would have had a problem – unless he didn’t like cheetahs.

Just over three hours from Dubai is a tranquil paradise that I would be happy to call home. And the best way to start your trip is from the air. The desert island of Sir Bani Yas, just west of Abu Dhabi, is seemingly inaccessible due to the shallow waters. Under the brilliant azure and turquoise ripples lie underwater mountain ranges and sand dunes struggling to reach fresh air. Sand bars jut out proudly into the inky depths, and rivers surge through sandy patches that have made their way to the surface. I could have been in the Maldives. I’ve been on lots of flights but this has to be one of the most captivating. At one point it was disorienting. The blue sea melted into the sandy coast, which merged with the sandy air, masking the horizon, which melted into the blue sky. I could have been flying upside down and not known it.

Our destination was a sneak preview of the new five-star deluxe Anantara Al Yamm villas opening next month to provide a relaxing and secluded spot that is so far unmatched in the Abu Dhabi area. To keep the peace, this is an adult-only retreat, although children are welcome at the neighbouring Desert Islands Resort. The 30 one or two bedroomed bungalows, which are neatly positioned on the beach or next to a lagoon, boast high-end fixtures and fittings, with plenty of dining and relaxing space to help you feel at home from home. If your private deck isn’t private enough you can retreat to the roof terrace.

The island has been developed by the Tourism Development and Investment Company, a subsidy of Abu Dhabi Tourism Authority, following the vision of Sheikh Zayed who wanted to create a sanctuary on the island, for his guests, as well as 10,000 gazelles, hyenas, cheetahs and giraffes.

So take your pick of activities: relax at the spa, swim in the pool or the sea, hire a boat for a spot of deep sea fishing, take a drive into the nature reserve for a bit of wildlife spotting…or do absolutely nothing. Isn’t that the point of a desert island?!

For more photographs click here.

The practical bit:

Transport: A free boat service, which runs every two hours, is available from the mainland, but the quickest option is to opt for a 20-minute flight from Al Bateen Executive Airport in Abu Dhabi. The flight, which costs around 400 AED, leaves three times a week on Saturdays, Tuesdays and Thursdays.

Prices: A special summer rates coincides with the opening of the new villas starting at 1,850 AED including breakfast for a one bedroomed villa.

Accommodation options: Anantara also operates the Desert Islands Resort and Spa, the only resorts currently on Sir Bani Yas Island. The Anantara Al Sahel Villa Resort is due to open at the end of the year.

A bit of trivia: Al Yamm means “the sea”. The name was inspired by the Arish dwellings of the early fishermen and pearl divers who lived seasonally on the island.

Want to find out more? www.al-yamm.anantara.com

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Getting things into perspective – revelling in Jebel Hafeet’s mountain view

11/6/2013

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I live in a jungle city and sometimes I crave for the jungle. I live in a desert, and yes, I miss real forests that I can run through, scented with natural mulch and moss. I live in city of skyscrapers and sometimes I want to find a view that isn’t the urban sprawl from the top of a high-rise. Living in Dubai, there are trade-offs, but if you want a view of mountains and sand dunes rather than spaghetti roads and concrete, I can point you in the right direction.

Jebel Hafeet stands 1,240 metres high and is the tallest peak in the Abu Dhabi region, and the second tallest in the UAE. It sits on the edge of Al Ain and is only a 90-minute drive away from the cities. It’s worth making the effort even on the hottest day. Believe me, it’s a pleasant surprise when you get to the top and brace yourself for the furnace that greets you when you open the car door, only to find that it is actually a couple of degrees cooler. It may not be a big difference, but living in a frying pan we’ll take those couple of degrees any time we can.

The road that winds its way up the steeply sided mountain switches to offer some great vantage points. Along the route there are several parking areas to allow you to stop and click away with your camera.

The aerial view allows you to get some geographical perspective on your surroundings. If you’re travelling from Dubai or Abu Dhabi, you’ll pass sand dunes, some impressively orange in colour, and then you’ll hit Al Ain, with its long straight roads and roundabouts. But once you’re half way up Jebel Hafeet you get a better understanding of how the land is constantly changing. They say that sand will eventually cover everything leaving no trace, if left unchecked, and from your elevated position you can see the creep of the sand dunes, trickling over the scrub. The flat scrub then gives way to rocky outcrops, which rise steeper and steeper out of the ground until they erupt into the surrounding mountains.

You don’t have to travel far to see things from a different perspective. You just have to get in the car and drive. And take a picnic and a camera.

The practical bit
Accommodation: 
Probably the only hotel commanding such a view, the Mercure Grand Hotel Jebel Hafeet is in a super location with restaurants taking full advantage of its pinnacle position. The only things grand about the hotel however, is its title. It’s a little disappointing in terms of the quality of food and service. Although dated, it is basically clean. The rooms are on the small side for a family. We asked for a twin double room, to share with our two children, but the beds were not a standard size and not much bigger than a single; rather too snug for two adults to share comfortably. 

There are spa services, but I’m not sure whether I’ve had the worst or the best massage of my life. If you opt for a pampering don’t be surprised if this is not what you get. Less pampered and more pummeled. My husband described how he was hoisted up the bed by the masseuse putting her fingers in his ears and then had his eyeballs vibrated by an electronic massager. I’m not entirely sure if he was complaining.

Things to do:
·      Al Ain zoo – Compared to others this is a spacious and well-maintained zoo, which caters for rare breeds and endangered species too. It’s open 365 days a year but only during the evenings in the summer. www.awpr.ae

·      Watch towers and forts – Al Jahili is one of the oldest forts in the UAE and the birthplace of the late Sheikh Sayed Bin Sultan al Nahyan, founder of the nation. The Al Ain Museum is also worth visiting if you want an introduction to the region’s early history. 

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Dancing on the dunes: the largest desert in the world

28/5/2013

32 Comments

 
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You really could not have contrived a more a perfect Kodak moment if you’d tried; the symmetry of the Arabian-inspired crenelated walls, with a central infinity pool reflecting an arch, which offers a perfect window to the burnt orange sun-scorched sand dunes beyond. Then wait for the sun to go to bed and your breath is taken away by the brilliant moon perched perfectly above.

If you want real desert this is the place to come. We’ve escaped Dubai’s skyscraper forest before for the smooth open undulating dunes of the desert. It’s a fun afternoon to pack a coolerbox, firewood and some marshmallows, and set up camp just an hour away from home. It feels remote and peaceful. At least I thought it did until today.

Liwa is an oasis on the edge of the largest desert in the world, Rub al Khali (Empty Quarter). And it does its name justice. Three hours’ drive from Dubai and you start to get a real feel for what desolation is. I’m not usually worried but I had the nagging feeling that we would be screwed if our car broke down. With the weight of responsibility for two young children we tend to be more sensible now than we were in our backpacking days. We had water, snacks, maps…but there was no shadow or shade in sight. In 40C heat, you don’t last long without it.

The Rub al Khali desert is so harsh and barren even Bedouins only dance around the edges of it, but the 150km wide Liwa oasis that hugs the side is not empty of history. This land is famous for bearing the footsteps of Wilfred Thesiger on his explorations. It is also home to the Maktoum and Al Nahyan families who now rule Dubai and Abu Dhabi.

The Tilal Liwa hotel was our temporary home for this weekend away from life; “tilal” means “dune”. Originally a hotel for camel owners galloping to the track during December’s festival, it soon found itself the target of expats searching for the real Arabian desert. There are now plans to expand the hotel with villas.

Today we got acquainted with the Arabian desert at very close quarters. A little too close for my liking as I found my nose an inch from the windscreen of a 4x4 as we rolled and pitched across the dunes. The raw beauty is stunning though. Bring a plastic bag with you…just in case.

Accommodation: Tilal Liwa hotel, built three years ago, is 180km from Abu Dhabi (330km from Dubai). Although the hotel has four stars it is no frills; don’t expect the glitz of a big city hotel. It has a beautiful courtyard with an infinity pool. The view of the dunes from the pool is reason enough to visit. The best rooms have patio doors opening onto the courtyard. 

The largest desert in the world? Are you sure? How do you cut a cake?! To be considered a desert an area must have less than 250 millimeters of annual rainfall, so strictly speaking that would be the Antarctic. The Sahara is the world’s largest hot weather desert, but the Rub al Khali is the largest sand desert ie. single largest area of continuous sand.

For more photographs, please click here. 

Competition: win a weekend in the largest desert in the world

Fancy heading off to the desert for a mini break? The Liwa oasis, a two hour drive outside Abu Dhabi, is on the edge of the Rub al Khali, or the Empty Quarter, the largest sand desert in the world. Experience an exciting summer adventure at the 4-star Tilal Liwa Hotel.

The lucky winner will receive a voucher for a two night weekend stay, for up to two adults and two children under 12, including breakfast. Activities include a sightseeing visit to the traditional camel farms and race arena, sand boarding, as well as full use of the hotel pool, gym and kids' club.

How to enter:
Leave a comment completing the statement: "I love the desert because...." The best comment wins. It's as easy as that. Good luck. Click here for conditions.

Closing date: 
Sunday, 7th July, 2013

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